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Zone
O |
Zone O represents
maximum black in a print, it is almost (but not quite!) the least density
the film will record. Zone O is five stops less than the light meter indicates.
Anything on or below this zone in the subject will reproduce as an empty
black in a print. Dodging the print in a Zone O area to try and show detail
is useless since the film will not record detail at this level of exposure.
Basically, if the subject falls on Zone O or lower, it is pure black! |
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Zone
I |
Zone I represents
the least useful exposure on the film and the darkest tone, apart from black,
in a print. This is the darkest tone of the dynamic range, the range of
tones that give a print depth and beauty. Print tone I is virtually the
same as maximum black.
When testing
your film, Zone I exposure is used to determine the 'speed point' which
is used to test for your personal Exposure Index or E.I. (the true ISO
for the film you use). The true ISO, your personal E.I., is obtained when
a Zone I exposure produces a density between 0.08 and 0.15 above film
base plus fog. This is the bottom of the toe of the characteristic curve.
(See Film Tests for more info.)
A Zone I
exposure is four stops less than your light meter indicates for the area
of the subject measured. |
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Zone
II |
Zone II exposure
is the first level of exposure that records useful detail on the film.
This produces a very dark tone in a print that has the slightest hint
of texture in it. The amount of texture alone would not be enough to accurately
identify the subject. This tone in a print gives depth to the shadow areas
without looking completely blocked in.
This
is the darkest zone of the texture range (The range of zones
that provide visual detail and texture).
To obtain
a Zone II exposure for an area of the subject, reduce the indicated meter
reading from the area by three stops. |
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Zone
III |
Zone III
is the first level of exposure that produces full detail on the film.
In the print, a Zone III exposure of the film produces a tone that is
dark but with excellent texture. The subject would be identifiable from
the texture. If you want good detail in a shadow, it must receive at least
a Zone III exposure on the film.
This
is the darkest tone that contains full detail. This is a very important zone!
To obtain
a Zone III exposure for an area of the subject, reduce the indicated meter
reading from the area by two stops. |
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Zone
IV |
Zone IV is
a shadow that is full of detail and looks full of light. It is one stop
less exposure than the light meter indicates. It is the print tone you
would normally experience on the shadowed side of a strong portrait or
the shadows of a front lit building in sunlight.
To obtain
a Zone IV exposure for an area of the subject, reduce the indicated meter
reading from the area by one stop. |
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Zone
V |
Zone V represents
'middle grey', an 18% reflectance equivalent to the Kodak Grey Card. Middle
grey is generally the lightest 'shadow' tone and is seen on a print as
a very luminous shadow. Zone V could be the shadow on the face of a portrait
with low contrast lighting, e.g 3:1. When you use a light meter to measure
an area of the subject, the reading indicated by the meter is designed
to reproduce that area as a middle grey. Simply remember that a light
meter always indicates a Zone V exposure. If you require a different exposure
zone, you must modify the meter reading.
Examples
of subjects that usually (remember these are recommendations not rules)
require Zone V exposure are, clear blue north sky, green grass in sunlight,
dark skin, grey stone, average weathered wood. |
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Zone
VI |
Zone VI represents
a well lit subject with full detail. It is usually the lightest of the
middle values of the subject. It helps to understand the last statement
if you remember to visualise the grey scale in three parts, Zones O to
III are low values (dark areas), Zones IV to VI are middle values (where
most detail is seen) and Zones VII to X are high values (light areas).
Examples of Zone VI would be Caucasian skin tones in sunlight or diffuse
daylight, light stone, shadows on sunlit snow.
To obtain
a Zone VI exposure for an area of the subject, increase the indicated
meter reading from the area by one stop. |
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Zone
VII |
Zone VII
represents a light area that still retains excellent detail. Examples
would be very light skin, side lit snow, light coloured or grey objects.
Think of a Zone VII exposure as producing a 'bright' print tone.
To obtain
a Zone VII exposure for an area of the subject, increase the indicated
meter reading from the area by two stops. |
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Zone
VIII |
Zone VIII
is a very important zone because it represents the 'film development point'
and is the last high value zone that will contain good texture. Examples
of a Zone VIII exposure would be whites with texture (white sweater, white
painted wood), textured snow, the highlight on the cheek of a Caucasian
face.
This
is the lightest zone in the texture range.
Zone VIII
is used when testing the development of a monochrome film. For correct
development to produce negatives for use with diffuse light enlargers,
the density produced for a Zone VIII exposure should be in the range 1.25
to 1.35 above base plus fog. (See Film
Tests for more info.)
To obtain
a Zone VIII exposure for an area of the subject, increase the indicated
meter reading from the area by three stops. |
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Zone
IX |
Zone IX exposure
produces the lightest tone on the print before pure paper white. This
tone will not retain detail, it adds subtlety and beauty to the high values
of a print but does not show detail. This is similar to what Zone I does
for the dark areas.
Examples
would be flat white paper, textureless white paint, snow in flat sunlight.
This
is the lightest zone in the dynamic range.
To obtain
a Zone IX exposure for an area of the subject, increase the indicated
meter reading from the area by four stops. |
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Zone
X |
Zone X exposure
represents the pure white of the print paper. Anything on or above Zone
X is blank white in the print. This cannot be printed down to obtain detail,
the detail is so compressed that it will not separate in the print! This
is the top of the shoulder of the 'traditional' characteristic curve (many
modern films do not show a shoulder on the characteristic curve until
much more exposure is received, but our restriction is still the print
paper!). Like Zone O, if it ain't on the film, it can't be on the print!
To obtain
a Zone X exposure for an area of the subject, increase the indicated meter
reading from the area by five stops. |
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If you find the extensive information on this site useful, please consider supporting the maintenance costs by making a donation. Thank You.
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